This was a double day in port - and a double port day, almost, as although Paula got up in the night unable to sleep, she was also unable to get the cork out of the port bottle…
We’d docked at Peru’s largest port at Caillou (pronounced Kayo), which over time has morphed onto the outskirts of Lima itself, making one very large city of about 8 or 9 million people. The port is a working container port so passengers are not allowed to walk around. They must exit via a free shuttle bus to the gates and were then advised to grab a taxi, or, take the $8 Princess Shuttle to the San Miguel Shopping Centre or, like us, take a Princess tour.
It was a bit grey looking outside and first thing, we donned sweatshirts for the walk across the open deck but I then opted for a normal shirt and the old faithful rally jacket.
We had to meet at a leisurely 9am so an easy enough start to this two day stopover.
Our tour guide was Ada and the coach was immaculate, complete with pristine white headrest covers, though it was a bit chilly with the a/c on. The sound system had a lot of echo on it and as we sat at the rear of the coach, I only caught about half of the commentary. We’d booked on the half day city tour and Indian Market.
Almost the first thing Ada told us was that in spite of the very light drizzle we may have experienced first thing, it rarely actually rained!
Downtown Caillao was indeed a bit grim, but probably not as bad as we’d been warned. Sadly, once again, graffiti everywhere and even very high up on some abandoned buildings. It is obviously a worldwide problem and judging by the size of some of the tags, the perpetrators must be carrying around pails of paint, not the spray cans that most of us use in and around the garage, which seem to run out in a matter of minutes.
As we approached Lima itself (no discernible border) the traffic seemed to be NY style on the main road in, with constant traffic light delays. (No subway here either.) Drivers tend to be quite aggressive (Ada’s comment) and even our coach driver seemed to muscle his way through pretty well when lanes merged.
Our first stop was at the Plaza in central Lima but this seemed to be blocked off to traffic, so we were allowed just ten minutes or so to follow our guide through to the plaza and take photographs. I thought it rather amusing to see three (friendly) policewomen with riot or crowd control shields. Think about it. Three…
Out of the square and to catch up with the coach again at a different place. Ada was panicking a bit as she was one short on her count. Maybe if she’d counted us OFF the coach, she wouldn’t have worried, because as the bus drew up, there was still one lady on it happily waving to us!
There was quite a lot of waving throughout the day as the locals seemed extremely friendly. Waving from cafes, traffic lights, police, adults, children etc. There are a lot of police around but there are several sections. Those wearing white lanyards are tourist police and they’ll do anything to assist wherever they can. There are local police who are there to patrol and keep an eye of things then there are the traditional police – who by the way, also seemed very friendly.
The next stop was a 5 minute photo stop on the cliff top above the beach at Miraflore. This was what could be translated as ‘Lover’s Park’ dominated by a large sculpture of an embracing couple. The pose was being echoed by a couple of engrossed locals, who were somewhat surprised and more than a little embarrassed, when two coachloads of Princess passengers converged on the park, with a chorus of whistles, cheers and applause! Looking down between the mosaic murals down to the sea front was a traditional British style seaside pier.
On then to the Indian Market – but not the Asian Indians. First port of call was a comfort stop but it wasn’t free, but our calls were paid for by one of the tour leaders.
This was just one section of what is probably a large area with many traditional stalls – but in the section we went to, no food stalls at all, which was a little disappointing, not because I was hungry, but as you will have gathered from earlier posts, I do find them interesting.
We had about 50 minutes here before boarding the coach for the run back to the ship, but instead of going through the traffic clogged city, the driver took the coastal route, but not before he’d driven along the cliff top again. Just over a small wall on the sea side, we couldn’t help noticing loads of unaccompanied dogs. Ada explained that locals, rather than leaving their canine companions cooped up all day, heaved them over the wall in the morning, on the way to work and hopefully, Fido was still there when they got home at night! It isn’t always so…
The seafront road was quite bumpy with heaps of speed bumps as well as rough patches so taken at local speed, it was a bouncy run back to the ship.
Now logic dictates that if there are 9 coaches doing a tour and leaving the ship around the same time, then surely, with an overnight stop, with no time pressures, someone would co-ordinate a staggered arrival back at the dock?
Nope. About four hundred passengers arrived at the same time (port and shop shuttles were also returning) so the queue to re-board was about 200 metres by the time we joined it. Fortunately there was no blazing sun so we weren’t baked, but not the ideal end to what was a pleasant tour.
Needless to say that at 2pm, the Horizon Court buffet was also rather busy – but at least there was a beef curry to enjoy, before ambling down to deck 5 again for an overdue coffee. Whilst there, the Captain was welcoming back the Princess group who had been to Machu Piccu, with a drink! Mrs Captain had taken the tour so that might have had something to do with it.
We chatted with Len who was one of the returning group and he thought it a great experience. The private tour group were arriving back a day later, but it appears that the Princess group arrived back in Lima last night, so were already in the City when the ship arrived. Quite why we needed an overnight stop hasn’t really been explained. Not being able to walk off the ship and into town at will makes it difficult to make the most of the long stop.
Paula and I relaxed in the cabin as it wasn’t warm enough to be outside and with it being open dining, had planned on eating at the buffet, but at about 6:40, Darryl rang to say they’d just returned and after a shower, would meet us in the dining room as usual. Fine by us.
We went to the Folkloric Show in the theatre. Although very colourful and the group played well, the South American music is a bit repetitive. The main dancers were good, but the stars of the show were two young guys who did a Peruvian version of what could best be described as acrobatic break dancing!
So ended day 1 of two, with nothing planned for tomorrow, but all aboard at 3:30pm with sailaway shortly after.
Day 2
Just for a change, I skipped the Robert Timms coffee (bag) with breakfast and had lemon and honey. Two reasons. One, my supply is running low. Two, it must be healthier… (This change will only be occasional won’t last long.)
We debated the merits of getting the $8 each way shuttle to a shopping plaza, but those who had been said it wasn’t really worth the effort, so we ambled down to the atrium for a leisurely late morning coffee. We sat with Ed & Bev and Bev showed us some nice $5 items she’d just bought at the local stall/market, situated somewhat surprisingly, half way between the ship and the dock gates. Paula decided she may as well have a look and Bev opted to go with her. Ed decided to stay on board and so did I…
They took the shuttle towards the gates and hopped out at the market. To get back, they had to hop back on the (8 seater!) shuttle when others hopped off, carry on to the gates then stay on for the return run. It was worth it as Paula returned with two colourful hats for herself and two small gifts for the twins.
Meanwhile, I had the camera with the long lens with and spent a happy half an hour or so snapping away, getting some great shots of the local pelicans. Pity the sun wasn’t out for better colours, but I was still pleased with the results.
Up to the buffet only to get an announcement over the ship’s system that there was a compulsory lifeboat safety drill in 15 minutes! As I may have mentioned earlier, new maritime rules are that the drill is compulsory every 30 days, so even though some had only got on in New York, everyone had to sit through it again. All of it. Maybe they need a refresher drill rather than the full one for those who have recently done one, as some of the message is somewhat irrelevant such as using your cruise cards when getting of the ship and the no-smoking rules.
As mentioned earlier, all aboard was 3:30 and leaning on our balcony rail after the drill, I watched a van delivering fruit and veg still being unloaded at 3:40, when a Princess coach returned.
The gangplank stayed down and at 4:10, two more coaches returned… Traffic in town was apparently horrendous and several people later mentioned that their taxi drivers were most apologetic. (By the way, taxi fares sounded very reasonable with fares of $7 or so per car being about normal for local trips to Miraflores for example.)
Dinner was generally OK, but Darryl & Sue thought their suckling pig a bit too fatty, so asked for extra meat – which of course was no problem. Mike and I had Argentinian veal which to us was just sliced roast veal, but it was nice.
On to the theatre where we weren’t too sure, so sat at the rear.
Female singer – Rebecca Lowe. Her best number was her final one – ‘Don’t Cry For Me Argentina’ when she was joined on stage by her hubby (who she met on a cruise ship!) playing the electronic vibes. He has a concert of his own tomorrow night.
A run of four sea days now as we head to Easter Island, but overall, it is a lot cooler than we thought it would be, especially as we have only just crossed the equator. The ‘motion discomfort devices’ (barf bags’) have reappeared on the stairwells, so it might be a bit choppy again.
As it has been much cooler than we expected on this leg, our thoughts and discussions are now focussed on next year, as we have booked the whole trip, Sydney to Southampton and back to Sydney.
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